94 lines
3.5 KiB
Markdown
94 lines
3.5 KiB
Markdown
# RefillPlease
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<img src="images/Overview.png" width="1080">
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<img src="images/refillplease.png" width="640">
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> Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to build a simple yet cool looking filament runout sensor for your Voron printer.<br>
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As always, should you or any of your printers be hurt in the process, the Secretary and myself will disavow any knowledge of your actions.<br>
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This readme will not self-destruct in five seconds, cause we're not on TV.<br><br>
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Good luck.
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## BOM
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This part is designed to replace the stock bowden tube holder, so you can reuse the M3x8 SHCS and the M3 Hammer Head T nut.
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You will need :
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* 1 x micro switch (body : 20x6x10mm) with a lever (search for 'SPDT 5A, 125V 250V 29mm')
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* 1 x JST 2 pins female connector
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* 4 x M2x10 self tapping screws
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* two piece of wire (30mm length each)
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And some tools :
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* pair of pliers
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* small Philips screwdriver
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* soldering iron
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* a multimeter (optional, but it makes you look smart when using it)
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## What does it do, and why should I do this mod?
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It is a drop in replacement for the stock bowden tube holder with the benefits of being a filament runout sensor. So you know, it will mainly tell you when your printer need a refill (hence the name).
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#### Print Settings:
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Standard Voron print settings are fine, ABS+ (but PLA or PETG are fine too since it will not stand in the enclosure).
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* 0.4 mm Nozzle
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* 0.2 mm layer height
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* 30% infill
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* no supports
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* 4 vertical shells
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* 5 solid layers top and bottom
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##### What files need to be printed?
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Select the *_right* parts if you want to put the filament sensor on the right of the printer, *_left* parts otherwise (when you stand in front of the printer).
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You'll need:
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* [a]_core__(left/right).stl
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* cover_(left/right).stl
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# Assembly:
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<img src="images/interior90.png" width="640">
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Step 1: Take a refill of coffee
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Step 2: Bring out your inner artist\
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Using your pliers, try to form the lever to look like the picture (cut the lever if needed).\
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You may have to adjust the lever shape and length after trying to insert the filament so the switch is depressed each time the filament is inserted.
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Step 3: Prepare the electronics\
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Put the micro switch and the JST connector in the Core part
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Be careful:
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* the switch lever must go UP / in the oposite direction of the JST connector location.
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* the JST connector notched face should go directly on the core part (you should see a matching notch)
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Use this as a template to cut the piece of wires to the correct length.\
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Strip the wire with pliers.
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Step 4: Soldering\
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Tin plate the JST pins and the wires.\
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*You could use the printed part as a support when soldering the wires, but be carefull not to go too close to the plastic parts*\
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Solder according to the picture
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Step 5: Testing\
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Using the multimeter in continuity mode, be sure that the current is going through when the switch is depressed.
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Step 6: Close everything\
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Put the cover on using the M2x10 self tapping screws, but let the top ones loose.\
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Insert the PTFE tubes on each sides, and tighten the screws to block everything in place.
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## Software
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Sample configuration for Klipper can be found in the `/klipper` directory.
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To use it, add the file `filament_runout_detection.cfg` from your UI and load it in your `printer.cfg` file using the following directive :
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`[include filament_runout_detection.cfg]`.
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Adapt the switch_pin according to your mcu configuration (sample file is for an Octopus mcu).
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The sample config come with a M600 filament change macro provided by VintageGriffin on Discord.
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