100 lines
3.8 KiB
Markdown
100 lines
3.8 KiB
Markdown
# Astrodyne IEC 320 C14 Power Inlet Housing for V0.1
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This mod is a replacement housing for the stock v0.1 power inlet, replacing the
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[Adam Tech
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IEC-GS-1-100](https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/adam-tech/IEC-GS-1-100/9831135)
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(which has been on back-order at Digikey for quite a while at the time of this
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writing) with an [Astrodyne/TDI
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082S/082SM](https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Astrodyne-TDI/082S0150000?qs=eP2BKZSCXI7jG836kH3rhw%3D%3D).
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In addition to the power inlet you will also need to acquire some inexpensive 5
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mm diameter X 20 mm long 250V fast-acting fuses (see the v0 sourcing guide for details).
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## Files
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- [STL](./STLs/astrodyne-inlet.stl)
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- [STEP file](./CAD/power-inlet-astrodyne.step)
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- [Fusion 360 design](./CAD/power-inlet-astrodyne.f3d)
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## Assembled view
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## Printed part render
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## Unassembled view
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## Front view
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## Rear view
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## Fuses
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## Printing notes
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Slice and print with standard Voron settings (ABS, 40% infill, 0.4mm line width,
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0.2mm layer height, 5 top/bottom layers, 4 walls) but there isn't a lot of
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surface area in contact with the bed, so you may struggle with warping unless
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your first layer is dialed in perfectly (perhaps with a little extra squish).
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There is no shame in printing this part with a brim (I've not added any fillets
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to the front edge for precisely this reason).
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The [STL](./STLs/astrodyne-inlet.stl) should import into your slicer with the
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correct orientation. If not, ensure that the front (where the inlet is inserted)
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is face down on the bed.
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## Design and assembly notes
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This design should be a simple drop-in replacement of the stock parts, but it's
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secured at just two points: the heat-set insert in the side and the screw
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through the ear on the top.
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I've used one fewer screw than the original part, but two screws on
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orthogonal faces are more than rigid enough in practice.
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If you've already inserted both M3 nuts, I'd recommend simply sliding one as far
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to the left as possible (as you face the back of the printer) and securing it
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with an M3 x 6mm screw. There will still be room for the other nut, and it beats
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having to disassemble the frame (or leaving an extra nut rattling around).
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The printed housing has a slightly larger panel cutout than called for in the
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[Astrodyne 082S/082SM
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datasheet](https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/astrodyne-tdi/082sm0150000/?qs=eP2BKZSCXI4KQZVxn1eqpw%3D%3D).
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I just guesstimated the amount of offsets to account for part shrinkage and
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printing tolerances, but my first print of the part worked perfectly: the
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power-inlet snapped into place with a quite satisfying click, and felt quite
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secure.
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**WARNING**: Both the 082S (general purpose) and the 082SM ("M" for "medical")
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models have small tabs on each side of
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the inlet (**not** shown in the data-sheet). Apparently, these tabs are intended
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to bend slightly when a C13 power cord is inserted
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into the receptacle, taking up any side-to-side play. The tabs are
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free to move on three edges and only attached at the rear-most edge. The tabs move
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**very** stiffly, however, especially for the first several insertions. I found it
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necessary to insert a tool (e.g. a letter opener or screwdriver) and gently bend
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the tabs a bit before I could insert a cord the first time.
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## View of the side tabs
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## Disassembly
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No.
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[Just kidding. It _might_ be possible to remove the inlet from the printed
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housing if you sneak a couple of butter knives or narrow putty knives down the
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sides to release the clips, but I ended up just sawing off the test print I used
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to check the fit.]
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