Astrodyne inlet rev b (#373)

* Add warning to readme re: 082SM tabs

* Add headings to images

* Rex is an idiot: tabs are normal (readme update)

* Update fuse brain-fart
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# Astrodyne IEC 320 C14 Power Inlet Housing for V0.1
This mod is a replacement housing for the stock v0.1 power inlet, replacing the [Adam
Tech
IEC-GS-1-100](https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/adam-tech/IEC-GS-1-100/9831135)
(which has been on back-order at Digikey for quite a while at the time of
this writing) with an
[Astrodyne/TDI
082S](https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Astrodyne-TDI/082S0150000?qs=eP2BKZSCXI7jG836kH3rhw%3D%3D).
This mod is a replacement housing for the stock v0.1 power inlet, replacing the
[Adam Tech
IEC-GS-1-100](https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/adam-tech/IEC-GS-1-100/9831135)
(which has been on back-order at Digikey for quite a while at the time of this
writing) with an [Astrodyne/TDI
082S/082SM](https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Astrodyne-TDI/082S0150000?qs=eP2BKZSCXI7jG836kH3rhw%3D%3D).
-------
In addition to the power inlet you will also need to acquire some inexpensive 5
mm diameter X 20 mm long 250V fast-acting fuses (see the v0 sourcing guide for details).
**WARNING**: I just discovered that the 082SM ("M" for "medical") has small tabs on both sides of
the inlet (**not** shown in the datasheet). These tabs physically prevent normal C13 power
cords (what the Brits would call "bog standard kettle cords") from fitting into the
receptacle. I _think_ but am not yet sure that the 082S (general purpose model)
does not have the tabs (I think they are to prevent non-certified
cords from being used accidentally). I've ordered an 082S to verify and will
update this README once I've confirmed.
## Files
Also, as should be obvious: You will need to acquire and insert 250VAC buss
fuses (by pulling out the little drawer — there is a slot for the active
fuse, plus room for a spare in the front).
## View of Tab in 082SM version
![082S side tab](./images/082SM-tabs.jpg)
-------
- [STL](./STLs/astrodyne-inlet.stl)
- [STEP file](./CAD/power-inlet-astrodyne.step)
- [Fusion 360 design](./CAD/power-inlet-astrodyne.f3d)
## Assembled view
@ -48,11 +36,15 @@ fuse, plus room for a spare in the front).
![Rear view](./images/rear-view.jpg)
## Fuses
![Fuses](./images/fuses.jpg)
## Printing notes
Slice and print with standard Voron settings (ABS, 40% infill, 0.4mm line width,
0.2mm layer height, 5 top/bottom layers, 4 walls) but there isn't a lot of
surface area in contact with the bed so you may struggle with warping unless
surface area in contact with the bed, so you may struggle with warping unless
your first layer is dialed in perfectly (perhaps with a little extra squish).
There is no shame in printing this part with a brim (I've not added any fillets
to the front edge for precisely this reason).
@ -83,16 +75,25 @@ printing tolerances, but my first print of the part worked perfectly: the
power-inlet snapped into place with a quite satisfying click, and felt quite
secure.
**WARNING**: Both the 082S (general purpose) and the 082SM ("M" for "medical")
models have small tabs on each side of
the inlet (**not** shown in the data-sheet). Apparently, these tabs are intended
to bend slightly when a C13 power cord is inserted
into the receptacle, taking up any side-to-side play. The tabs are
free to move on three edges and only attached at the rear-most edge. The tabs move
**very** stiffly, however, especially for the first several insertions. I found it
necessary to insert a tool (e.g. a letter opener or screwdriver) and gently bend
the tabs a bit before I could insert a cord the first time.
## View of the side tabs
![082S side tab](./images/082SM-tabs.jpg)
## Disassembly
No.
[Just kidding. It _might_ be possible to sneak a couple of butter knives or
narrow putty knives down the sides to release the clips, but I ended up just
sawing off the test print I used to check the fit.]
## Files
- [STL](./STLs/astrodyne-inlet.stl)
- [STEP file](./CAD/power-inlet-astrodyne.step)
- [Fusion 360 design](./CAD/power-inlet-astrodyne.f3d)
[Just kidding. It _might_ be possible to remove the inlet from the printed
housing if you sneak a couple of butter knives or narrow putty knives down the
sides to release the clips, but I ended up just sawing off the test print I used
to check the fit.]

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