250 hour counter skirt fix and double rail UHP bracket by MarcPot (#158)

printer_mods/MarcPot/Skirt_Mods/README.md

@@ -2,6 +2,9 @@
 ![All Options](Images/all_skirt_mods.JPEG)
 
 **WARNING I HAVE NOT TESTED THE 250 and 350 VERSIONS. PLEASE TELL ME IF YOU DID AND I'LL EDIT THIS WARNING.**
+
+**WARNING to give the hour counter enough clearance in the 250 version the hour counter will overlap the plug panel, this should not matter. But again, I haven't tested it.**
+
 I have checked them all in my slicer and they sliced correctly.
 
 Also, if you think the keystones don't fit, try rotating them.
@@ -22,6 +25,40 @@ No special printing instructions. They are skirts.
 ## Assembly instructions
 No special Assembly instructions. They are skirts.
 
+## Configuration instructions
+For the keystones there are no special configuration instructions. They are plug & play.
+
+For the hour counter there are multiple ways to set it up. The simplest way is to add it to Klipper as a heater_fan. 
+
+```
+# Heater cooling fans (one may define any number of sections with a
+# "heater_fan" prefix). A "heater fan" is a fan that will be enabled
+# whenever its associated heater is active.
+[heater_fan hour_counter]
+pin: CHANGE THIS TO THE CONNECTED PIN NUMBER
+#heater: extruder
+#   Name of the config section defining the heater that this hour counter is
+#   associated with. If a comma separated list of heater names is
+#   provided here, then the fan will be enabled when any of the given
+#   heaters are enabled. The default is "extruder".
+heater_temp: 170
+#   A temperature (in Celsius) that the heater must drop below before
+#   the hour counter is disabled. The default is 50 Celsius.
+#fan_speed: 1.0
+#   This should be kept at 1.0
+shutdown_speed: 0.0
+#   The desired fan speed (expressed as a value from 0.0 to 1.0) if
+#   the micro-controller software enters an error state. This is set
+#	to 0.0 so that the counter won't go on while in error state.
+```
+Thanks to hernsl#8860 for showing there is an easier way than macro's.
+
+When using a mains powered counter it should be set up using a relay, these relays can be controlled by the SKR's, then you don't have to change anything.
+But when controlling the relay using the Raspberry Pi you need to setup the Pi as MCU.
+Instructions on how to do this can be found at https://www.klipper3d.org/RPi_microcontroller.html
+
+Other options are the [Octoprint Enclosure Plugin](https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/enclosure/) for the mains counter, and the enclosure plugin + gcode macro's for SKR controller counters.
+
 ## CAD
 I uploaded the original 300 cad files I created because I did some really ugly things to get to the 250 and 350. So you're probably better of starting at the 300 if you want to edit them yourself. I did save them ofcourse so contact me if you want the files.
 

printer_mods/MarcPot/UHP_PSU_Bracket_Clip/README.md

@@ -2,7 +2,11 @@
 ![All Options](Images/all_tests.JPEG)
 
 ## Overview
-This is a DIN 3 Rail (35mm W) bracket for the Mean Well UHP series powersupply edited from [the official Voron Mean Well LRS series powersupply bracket](https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-2/blob/Voron2.4/STLs/VORON2.4/Electronics_Compartment/DIN_Brackets/lrs_psu_bracket_clip.stl). This design has 2 versions, one with an embedded nut and one with an heat-set insert.
+This is a DIN 3 Rail (35mm W) bracket for the Mean Well UHP-200 series powersupply edited from [the official Voron Mean Well LRS series powersupply bracket](https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-2/blob/Voron2.4/STLs/VORON2.4/Electronics_Compartment/DIN_Brackets/lrs_psu_bracket_clip.stl). This design has 2 versions, one with an embedded nut and one with an heat-set insert.
+
+The double rail version is made for the spec rail distance and doesn't work for other distances.
+
+I added the CAD files so editing to other sizes should be wasy. If you can't do it yourself hit me up on Discord.
 
 ## BOM
 * 4x M3x6 BHCS.
@@ -14,6 +18,9 @@ No special printing instructions. Part doesn't have to carry much weight.
 ## Assembly instructions
 Personally I added a little glue to the embedded nut to make it stick, but this is not needed.
 
+For the double rail version you're supposed to screw the UHP to the last clip after attaching the clips to the rail.
+Making a version that could be attached without this lost gripping strength or made the part harder than it needed to be.
+
 ## Questions
 Reach me in Voron's [Discord](https://discord.gg/xgXWctB) @MarcPot#3983 if you have any questions.