Update folder-structure / ReadMe of some mods (#834)
* Add local image to 3vilson - V0.1_Skirt_Holes * Add local image to 3vilson - V0.1_Skirt_Inlet * Correctly link images in ReadMe of ChenTheDesignMaker - Z_Belt_Clip * Fix image linking in ReadMe of DaGrooch13 - Tophat_Exhaust_Filter * Fix image in ReadMe of DorjeDorf - Duet_3_6HC_Din_Bracket * Fix images in ReadMe of elcrni - Trident_Internal_Spool_Holder * Fix images in ReadMe of elcrni - V2.4-Trident-Spool-Holders * Fix link in ReadMe of Kosh24EFG - kirigami_bed_front * Fix images in ReadMe of MSA - V0-Belt-tension-helper * Add local images to reQu1em00 - Kirigami_LED_Bed_Front * Use local images in ReadMe of AlexanderT-Moss - 270-Clamping-Hinges * Fix btp - Galileo chain mount linking directly into README instead of folder in mods table. * Fix folder structure and ReadMe for davidauvergene - Center_cable_management_duct
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Stanislaw Schlosser
GitHub
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<h2>Skirt with Access Holes from the bottom</h2>
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@ -1,11 +1,6 @@
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<h2>Skirt with C14 inlet + New feet to screw into</h2>
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* 2x M3x12 BHCS
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* 2x M3 Threaded Insert
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@ -6,7 +6,7 @@
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### Important Notice ###
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If you're going for a super sealed enclosure, then these hinges are not for you. In testing ( at the moment with only 2 hinges per panel ) I found after opening and closing the doors several times, they would slowly lose alignment ( only by fractions of a mm ) and just need a little push to re-align so the panels would close properly and not collide. This means you'll probably have a gap of a couple mm between the panels at the front if you don't want to be driven crazy by them not staying super aligned. A potential fix would be to print 3 hinges for each panel but I am yet to test this although I strongly recommend you do use 3 hinges per panel if you have a printer larger than 250x250 ( what I'm testing them on ).
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### Update Log ###
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**11.12.21** - Made subtle changes to dimensions to hold panels closer together whilst having them fully seated in the clamps for maximum strength, also changed recommended print settings for stronger face_plate_bottom.stl.
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@ -14,18 +14,18 @@
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### Using Foam Tape ###
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At the moment I have only tested using 3mm thick foam and that works well, you may be able to get away with 4mm foam, but for anything thicker, you'll need to modify part of the hinge to accommodate this.
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### Keeping The Doors Shut ###
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I am currently using clamps designed by [_v6cl_](https://github.com/v6cl/My-Voron2.4-Customs/tree/main/Panel_Locker)
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### Different Styles Of Face Plates ###
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The file names match up with the digrams below.
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Face Plate No Logo | Face Plate Embossed Logo | Face Plate Through Logo
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:-------------------------------:|:-------------------------------:|:-------------------------------:
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 |  | 
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| Face Plate No Logo | Face Plate Embossed Logo | Face Plate Through Logo |
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| :-------------------------------------------------------------: | :-------------------------------------------------------------: | :---------------------------------------------------------: |
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|  |  |  |
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## BOM - Per Hinge ##
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**Printed Parts**
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@ -54,7 +54,7 @@
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```
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## Assembly ##
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_Better photos will come in good time ;)_
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1. Attach the _face_plate_bottom_ to the _face_plate_top_ using 2x M3 x 8 mm Bolts and 2x Hex Nuts - Keep the bolts loose for now
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@ -62,9 +62,9 @@
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3. Install the finished hinge assembly to the frame using 1x M3 T-Nut and 1x M3x8mm Bolt - Position them now to your liking
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4. Once all the hinges are on the frame. Slot in a panel on one side, before tightening down the M3x8mm Bolts in the faceplate assembly. And repeat for the other panel.
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5. Loosen the panel's clamps and position accordingly, repeat for the other panel.
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6. For the handles, I just re-used the correct ones that _chrisgonzales_ made :).
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6. For the handles, I just re-used the correct ones that _chrisgonzales_ made :).
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## Installed On My 2.4 ##
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_Better photos will come in good time ;)_
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@ -5,14 +5,14 @@
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The 2.4 manual suggested leaving 1 to 2 inch Z belts, however, when the panels are up, the extra belt can drag along the panel. Not sure about adversary effects but not a bad idea to keep it tidy. The clip works for 9mm width belts, also should fit 6 mm. Just print and slide on.
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Extra belts before panel
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Extra belts with panel
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Installed Clip, all cleaned up!
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@ -2,12 +2,14 @@
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After growing tired of my room smelling of ABS, I decided to create an exhaust and filter system that could be printed entirely on a v0.
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This mod utlizes **5 layers** of 10mm thick activated charcoal sheets, a 60mm x 25mm fan and an optional roomba HEPA filter.
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I have tested it throughly and my design almost entirely eliminates the ABS smell during and after printing.
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<img src="/printer_mods/DaGrooch13/Tophat_Exhaust_Filter/Github_Images/Asm_Front_View.jpg" width="500">
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<img src="/printer_mods/DaGrooch13/Tophat_Exhaust_Filter/Github_Images/Front_View.jpg" width="400">
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The entire assembley (With the HEPA filter attachment) sticks out about 110 mm past the rear of the printer.
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<img src="/printer_mods/DaGrooch13/Tophat_Exhaust_Filter/Github_Images/Top_View.jpg" width="400">
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<img src="/printer_mods/DaGrooch13/Tophat_Exhaust_Filter/Github_Images/Side_View.jpg" width="400">
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The entire assembly (With the HEPA filter attachment) sticks out about 110 mm past the rear of the printer.
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## BOM
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* 4x M3x6 screws
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@ -19,11 +21,13 @@ The entire assembley (With the HEPA filter attachment) sticks out about 110 mm p
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* OPTIONAL Roomba HEPA filter [Link](https://www.amazon.com/MZY-LLC-Filters-Replacement-Robotic/dp/B00K7DMEJ0/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=roomba+filter&qid=1610595450&s=books&sr=1-7)
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## Assembly
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<img src="/printer_mods/DaGrooch13/Tophat_Exhaust_Filter/Github_Images/Exploded_Final_Labeled.jpg" width="700">
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Before printing the Fan_Cover make sure to check where the wires from your fan exit the housing and select the corresponding stl.
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The fan wires snake through the assembly and exit through one of the holes in the grill.
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You will also need to cut 5 55mm x 90mm sheets of activated charcoal to fit into the chamber
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<img src="/printer_mods/DaGrooch13/Tophat_Exhaust_Filter/Github_Images/Tophat_Install.jpg" width="500">
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## Wiring and Klipper
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Before Width: | Height: | Size: 1.6 MiB After Width: | Height: | Size: 1.6 MiB |
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@ -1,4 +1,4 @@
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Please use the generic PCB DIN Clip and mount these on top.
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.jpg)
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Image coutersy of medicusdkfz
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@ -1,7 +1,7 @@
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# V0 Kirigami Bed Front
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## Requirements
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- A fully installed kirigami bed: https://github.com/christophmuellerorg/voron_0_kirigami_bed
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- [A fully installed kirigami bed](https://github.com/christophmuellerorg/voron_0_kirigami_bed)
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## Notes
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This is the standard V0.1 bed front, adjusted for the excelent Kirigami bed. Secures with M3 nuts and SHCS.
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A belt tension helper - is a tool to do pre-tension of belts
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<img src="/printer_mods/MSA/V0-Belt-tension-helper/Images/Tension_tool_drawing.PNG" width="600">
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A tool act as a helper to do initial belt tension. It is able to do individual belt tension or synced tension of belts
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<img src="/printer_mods/MSA/V0-Belt-tension-helper/Images/Belttool-img2.jpg" width="600">
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BOM
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BOM
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- 2 or 3 M3 8mm bolts to mount helper to X-carriage
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- 2 or 3 M3 8mm bolts to mount helper to X-carriage
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- 2x15mm M5 bolts to fix belts when needed
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- 2x40mm M5 bolts and M5 nuts to perform tension
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- 2x40mm M5 bolts and M5 nuts to perform tension
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<img src="/printer_mods/MSA/V0-Belt-tension-helper/Images/Belttool-img6.jpg" width="800">
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While printing use higher infil for bottom or use cylidric modifies to add stength for pads where M5 bolts will do presure
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While printing use higher infil for bottom or use cylidric modifies to add stength for pads where M5 bolts will do presure
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See example here:
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<img src="/printer_mods/MSA/V0-Belt-tension-helper/Images/Tension_tool_slicing.PNG" width="800">
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Steps to perform:
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Step 1.
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Steps to perform:
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Step 1.
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Mount bottom part on X carriage and push thought belts. Keep in mind that loose belt backs square nut (use holes for regulate them)
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<img src="/printer_mods/MSA/V0-Belt-tension-helper/Images/Belttool-img5text.jpg" width="800">
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Step 2. Put top part and pass thought belts. Screw tension bolts to have zero minimal gap between bottom and top plate
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<img src="/printer_mods/MSA/V0-Belt-tension-helper/Images/Belttool-img3text2.jpg" width="800">
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Step 3. Fix belts on top part but leave loosen on bottom
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<img src="/printer_mods/MSA/V0-Belt-tension-helper/Images/Belttool-img1text.jpg" width="800">
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Step 4. Tension belt by turning the bolts synchronously (do it sequentially by one turn for each)
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<img src="/printer_mods/MSA/V0-Belt-tension-helper/Images/Belttool-img2text.jpg" width="800">
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Step 5. When belt are in tesion fix them using service holes by allen hex key
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<img src="/printer_mods/MSA/V0-Belt-tension-helper/Images/Belttool-img3text.jpg" width="800">
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Step 6. Loose all M5 and unmount top and bottom tool parts
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(Optional). When need to do individual belt tension use combination of bolts fix or loosen.
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(Optional). When need to do individual belt tension use combination of bolts fix or loosen.
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See example for case when need to do extra tension for top belt
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<img src="/printer_mods/MSA/V0-Belt-tension-helper/Images/Belttool-img1text2.jpg" width="800">
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@ -80,7 +80,7 @@ like so:
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| | [Filament Runout Sensor](./bobbleheed/Filament_Runout) | Filament runout sensor that replaces the stock bowden retainer | :x: | :heavy_check_mark: |:heavy_check_mark: | :x: | :heavy_check_mark: |
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|Boingomw|[Wago mount](./Boingomw/Wago_mount)| Smaller 5 port Wago mount that fits parallel to the support rails |:x:|:grey_question:|:heavy_check_mark:|:x:|:grey_question:|
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|Bondtech|[Mini-After-LGX-Lite](./Bondtech/Mini-After-LGX-Lite) |LGX Lite Toolhead Setup For Voron V0.1. | :heavy_check_mark: | :x: | :x: |:x:|:x:|
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| btp | [Galileo chain mount (befenybay)](./btp/Galileo_Switchwire_Chain_Mount/README.md) | Modified chain mount position to cater for difference with Galileo Clockwork |:x:|:x:|:x:|:heavy_check_mark:|
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| btp | [Galileo chain mount (befenybay)](./btp/Galileo_Switchwire_Chain_Mount) | Modified chain mount position to cater for difference with Galileo Clockwork |:x:|:x:|:x:|:heavy_check_mark:|
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| buzzdalf | [v1.8/2.4 Afterburner connector cover for 42STH20-1004AS](./buzzdalf/connector_cover) | v1.8/2.4 Connector cover for 42STH20-1004AS | :x: | :heavy_check_mark: | :heavy_check_mark: |:grey_question:|
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||[Ender 3 Switchwire Taller Z Mod](./buzzdalf/ender_switchwire_taller_z) | Taller Z Mod | :x: | :x: | :x: | :heavy_check_mark: |
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||[Ender 3 Switchwire Y Tensioner Mod](./buzzdalf/ytension) | Y Tension Mod | :x: | :x: | :x: | :heavy_check_mark: |
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Before Width: | Height: | Size: 121 KiB After Width: | Height: | Size: 121 KiB |
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Before Width: | Height: | Size: 341 KiB After Width: | Height: | Size: 341 KiB |
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Before Width: | Height: | Size: 59 KiB After Width: | Height: | Size: 59 KiB |
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Before Width: | Height: | Size: 75 KiB After Width: | Height: | Size: 75 KiB |
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Before Width: | Height: | Size: 92 KiB After Width: | Height: | Size: 92 KiB |
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@ -0,0 +1,18 @@
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A remake of ryandam's Mod for a centered cable management.
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You can find the original file here:
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[Cable Management Duct by ryandam](https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/ryandam/Cable_management_duct)
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I reinforced the slots to make it more robust.
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Fits on 300X3 version of V2.4 with TFT screen.
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I've added STEP and F3D files if you have to adapt the lenghts.
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Or you can find me on Discord at davidauvergne#2328 if you need help.
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## CAD
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## Pictures
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@ -1,9 +0,0 @@
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A remake of ryandam's Mod for a centered cable management.
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You can find the original file here:
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(VoronUsers/printer_mods/ryandam/Cable_management_duct)
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I reinforced the slots to make it more robust.
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Fits on 300X3 version of V2.4 with TFT screen.
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I've added STEP and F3D files if you have to adapt the lenghts.
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Or you can find me on Discord at davidauvergne#2328 if you need help.
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@ -33,18 +33,18 @@ STL File naming:
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## Images
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@ -33,11 +33,11 @@ This version uses 100mm x 8mm rod for spool core mounting. Provides very smooth
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- 4x M5x16 BHCS
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- 4x M5 Hex Nut
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### Classic Voron type spool holder
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@ -51,8 +51,8 @@ This version uses classic Voron spool holder design adopted to fit the spool hol
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- 1x M5x30 BHCS
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- 2x 105mm PTFE (4mm OD)
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@ -1 +0,0 @@
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Readme
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This is a modifaction of the V0 Kirigami front bed made by Kosh42EFG
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## BOM
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@ -19,7 +19,9 @@ This is a modifaction of the V0 Kirigami front bed made by Kosh42EFG
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- Install the kirigami bed
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- Wire the neopixel and place in the slot with the wires coming out through the tunnel
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- Add the defuser in front of the neopixel, make sure it is a tight fit to hold it well (print thicker if needed)
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- Fit the Kirigami_LED_Bed_Front.stl to the front of the kirigami bed using the M3 screws and nuts
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- Add configuration change to the printer.cfg in klipper:
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- [neopixel my_leds]
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